The Basic Parts of Auto Audio System Head Unit The head unit is the tuner, cassette deck, or CD player that sends the signal to the remainder of your automobile audio system.
Some head units have amplifiers built in ( in which scenario you must make sure your speakers are efficient enough to play loudly with the relatively little quantity of power in most head units – See the Power Up! Section. ). On a low budget? Buy speakers first. Better speakers can make your stock head unit sound truly good. You can upgrade it later on. And you will wish to. One thing to keep under consideration : ensure the head unit has pre-amp outputs when you purchase it. You will need them when you are prepared to add amplifiers later on. Speakers in the end the head unit source sends its signal to the speakers. Your speakers work out how your entire system will sound.
No equalizer, amplifier, or processor can compensate for poor ( or poorly installed ) speakers. Even though you are on a tight budget, you must plan on spending the majority of your allocated costs on your speakers. ( And if you are actually on the cheap, plan on a head unit and a group of speakers now, and stress about amps and processors later on. ) Subwoofers Subwoofers are the speakers that deliver the lower frequencies of the audio range. They have to be specifically installed, generally in a box designed specially for them. They demand more power to play at sufficient levels without distortion, which brings us to… Amplifiers An amplifier boosts your signal power, leading to a cleaner sound and more volume. And because more power is a great thing, an amplifier might be the new thing on your list. Watch out, though , because if you plan on adding a few high power amplifiers you could need to upgrade your car’s electric system with upgraded capacitors, battery, and-lastly-alternator.
More about amplifiers Amplifiers can truly turn your system on. With more power you can achieve a cleaner, more dynamic sound at higher volumes. But installing an amp yourself can be tough. Be certain to plan your install conscientiously. Never mount amps or other elements to the metal of your automobile. ( That is just asking for noise issues.
Instead, use screws with rubber isolators when you have to mount to metal, or mount the part to a non-conductive board and then mount the board to your car’s body. And before you drill holes to mount anything, hook the element up and give it a test run in your selected location. How self-satisfied will you’re feeling after finding that noise problem can be fixed just by moving your amp to a new location before you have drilled? Amps are responsive to electric and motor noise, and they can meddle with your radio reception. They should be mounted at least three feet from your head unit. You can mount an amp under a front seat.
This is close to your head unit, so you will be able to use shorter wires to both the head unit and the speakers, but larger amps will not work here. Mount an amp on the passenger side firewall ; you will not have to take away the seat, but again only a tiny amp will fit.
Even better mount your amp in your trunk, where it’ll have masses of room to respire, which is significant because Amps produce lots of heat. You may see cooling fins on an amp. They radiate that heat into the encompassing air to help chill the amp. For these fins to operate properly, they want one or two inches of air space around them at every point. Also, try and keep them vertical. Amps shouldn’t be mounted with the fins facing downward ( because heat will radiate back up into the amp ). A tip : simply because something is metal does not imply it is a good ground. Ground your amp right to areas of heavy frame metal only not to a bit of metal that is only attached to the framework. Use ground wire run-lengths of 18″-24″ maximum.
